Reduce body measurements by 10% to 20% depending on fabric stretch. Essential Tools
Cut a 10 cm sample of your chosen knit fabric. Hold it against a ruler and pull it gently until it resists. Note the extended length.
| | Author/Publisher | Focus/Target Audience | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics | Julie Cole | Drafting for knits and spandex; for students and designers. | | Bare Essentials: Underwear | Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks | Basic underwear design, construction, and pattern grading; for novices. | | Fashion Patternmaking for Menswear | Antonio Donnanno, Elisabetta "Kuky" Drudi | Patterns for menswear including underwear, shirts, trousers; for tailors and enthusiasts. | | Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear | (Book) | Lingerie blocks and creative design adaptations. | | Pattern Construction for Lingerie Dresses, Camisoles, Shorts | Mueller und Sohn | Step-by-step pattern construction guides. | | Course: How to Make a Brief Pattern | Van Jonsson Design | Step-by-step PDF guide for drafting a brief pattern from scratch. |
Designers use a specific calculation to reduce their "sloper" (basic block) based on the percentage of stretch in the fabric. For example, a fabric with 20% stretch requires a pattern reduction of approximately 15-18% to stay snug. 3. Essential Tools for the Draft
Creating the exact shape to hold the wire securely. Bridge/Center Front: Ensuring stability between cups. Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf
Designing a garment smaller than actual body measurements.
Because underwear patterns are small, using gridded paper helps maintain perfect symmetry. 4. Why a Technical Manual is Better Than a Template
Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin: Widely considered the definitive academic textbook for drafting bras, briefs, bodysuits, and swimwear.
Before drafting, you must calculate the of your fabric. Cut a 10cm x 10cm square of your chosen fabric. Reduce body measurements by 10% to 20% depending
Apply a 5mm (3/16 inch) seam allowance for areas joined by standard 3-thread or 4-thread overlockers.
At the base, square across roughly 2.5 to 3.5 cm (depending on size) to form the front attachment point for the gusset. Drafting the Back Panel
) measurements, as fine-tuning is often done in millimeters. Conclusion
Before drafting, you must determine how much your fabric stretches. Cut a 10 cm square of your chosen fabric. Note the extended length
Reduce your drafting body measurements by a corresponding percentage (typically 10% to 20% for standard briefs, depending on the fabric power and desired fit) before drawing your pattern lines. 2. Grainline and Fabric Recovery
The true genius of this book lies in its methodology. Rather than simply showcasing finished products, Dr. Shin introduces her own innovative system known as This approach uses flat patternmaking techniques, which break the human form down into manageable, two-dimensional blocks, to create patterns that deliver a commercial-quality fit .
The approach is grounded in , a technique where a two-dimensional block or sloper is manipulated to create a three-dimensional garment. The book provides step-by-step instructions on using a modified version of the industry-standard bra patternmaking method, designed to be easier and faster.